Srinagar’s century-old pearl craft faces survival crisis

Falak Bilal
Srinagar, Mar 23: In the narrow, timeworn lanes of Fateh Kadal in the old quarters of Srinagar, a small shop continues to keep alive a rare and delicate craft that has quietly shaped the region’s traditional jewellery heritage for more than a century.

Here, amid wooden shelves lined with tiny shimmering beads, Mohammad Yousuf Allaqband and his brother carry forward a family tradition of pearl stringing and intricate setting of pearls into gold ornaments — a skill passed down through generations.
The modest workspace may appear unassuming, but it holds decades of craftsmanship, patience, and artistic precision. Each pearl is carefully selected, threaded, and set into jewellery with meticulous attention, a process artisans say requires both steady hands and years of experience.
“This work may look simple from the outside, but it is extremely delicate,” Yousuf explains. “Every pearl has to be handled with care. One mistake can spoil the entire piece.”
Historically, the craft enjoyed significant demand, particularly during wedding seasons and festive occasions when pearl-studded ornaments were considered symbols of elegance and refinement. Families would often commission handcrafted jewellery, valuing the uniqueness and durability of traditional designs.
However, changing market trends and the rise of machine-made accessories have altered the landscape for artisans like Yousuf. Today, mass-produced jewellery and modern styles dominate consumer preferences, leaving little space for labour-intensive handmade crafts.
“There was a time when this business was prosperous,” Yousuf recalls. “Now the work is limited, and the earnings are not what they used to be.”
The declining financial viability of the craft has also discouraged younger generations from learning the skill. According to Yousuf, the profession demands long hours of focused work but offers relatively low returns — a reality that has made it less attractive to today’s youth.
“The younger generation is not coming forward,” he says. “The effort is high, but the profit is low. That is why many do not want to continue this tradition.”
For Yousuf, sustaining the shop is not merely about maintaining a livelihood; it is about honouring his family’s legacy. The business was once run by their father, a respected craftsman known for his dedication and expertise.
“This is our responsibility now,” he says. “We want to keep this tradition alive for as long as we can.”
Cultural observers note that such heritage crafts hold immense potential for niche markets and tourism if supported through promotion, training initiatives, and better access to buyers. Handmade pearl work, with its authenticity and historical value, could appeal to collectors and visitors seeking meaningful souvenirs.
Yet, without sustained recognition and institutional backing, artisans fear that the craft may gradually fade into obscurity — joining the list of traditional occupations that once defined Kashmir’s artisanal economy.
In Fateh Kadal’s quiet bylanes, the soft glimmer of pearls continues to reflect resilience and devotion. Each completed ornament is more than a piece of jewellery — it is a reminder that Kashmir’s living heritage survives through the determination of those who refuse to let their stories slip away, bead by bead.