Fading flavour: Traditional Roth survives against odds in Kashmir

Falak Bilal

Srinagar, April 6: In a quiet lane near Hazratbal Shrine, where the hum of daily life blends with the scent of traditional baking, a nearly century-old culinary practice continues to survive against the odds. Inside a modest bakery, Irfan and his family carry forward the legacy of making Roth — a rich, sweet bread once central to Kashmiri festivities.

Prepared using a time-honoured recipe of refined flour, sugar, ghee, and cardamom, Roth is shaped into thick discs, garnished with poppy seeds and dry fruits, and carefully fried until it achieves a golden, crisp finish. The process, though simple in ingredients, demands patience and precision — skills that have been passed down through four generations in Irfan’s family.
“This is not just food for us; it is our identity,” Irfan says, gently placing a freshly prepared Roth on display. “My grandfather used to say that Roth carries the blessings of every celebration it was made for — weddings, religious occasions, and family gatherings.”
Once a staple in Kashmiri households, Roth has gradually disappeared from many bakeries across the Valley. Changing consumer preferences and the rise of modern confectionery have led many traditional bakers to abandon the craft.
“People today want quick snacks and new flavors,” Irfan explains. “Making Roth takes time, effort, and dedication. Many have left this work because it is not as profitable or fast-moving as other bakery items.”
Despite these challenges, Irfan’s shop continues to draw loyal customers — some traveling from distant districts to relive a taste of nostalgia. Orders often come from areas where bakeries are plentiful, yet Roth remains scarce.
“We still get customers from South Kashmir who specifically ask for our Roth,” he adds. “They tell us it reminds them of their childhood and family traditions.”
Prices for Roth vary widely, ranging from modest pieces for everyday consumption to elaborate versions enriched with premium dry fruits, prepared especially for special occasions. Yet for Irfan, the worth of Roth cannot be measured in rupees.
“Even if the demand decreases, I will not stop making it,” he says firmly. “This is the work of my forefathers. If we give it up, a part of our culture will vanish.”
Food historians note that traditional breads like Roth are an integral part of Kashmir’s culinary identity, reflecting both its cultural richness and communal practices. However, without sustained interest from younger generations, such traditions risk being lost.
As Srinagar continues to modernize, Irfan’s bakery stands as a reminder that heritage often survives in the most unassuming places — in recipes remembered, in hands that refuse to forget, and in flavors that tell stories of a bygone era.