SRINAGAR, DEC 03: In the heart of Nowhatta, Srinagar, Muhammad Maqbool Akhoon, a 39-year-old man, has become a symbol of tradition’s resilience in the face of modernity. Every morning, his cart laden with Hokh Suen, dried vegetables encapsulating the essence of Kashmir’s culinary history, draws a crowd, especially during the winter months.
The popularity of Akhoon’s dried vegetables harks back to an age-old practice deeply rooted in necessity-driven traditions.
Ghulam Muhammad, an elder in the community, nostalgically recalls a time when every Kashmiri household engaged in the ritual of drying vegetables. Garlands of turnips, peppers, quince, and assorted veggies adorned walls, creating a picturesque scene that has gradually faded in urban areas due to the advent of modern supply chains.
Tomatoes, peppers, bottle gourds, and various herbs underwent a meticulous process of slicing, threading, and basking in sunlight before finding refuge in sacks or cloth.
Despite the shift away from this practice in urban areas, the demand for dried vegetables remains unwavering.
Bashir Ahmad, a shopkeeper, strategically sources his stock from rural areas where the tradition persists as both a livelihood and cultural heritage. Even as tastes evolve and modern conveniences dominate, the demand for dried vegetables in Kashmir endures.
This sustained demand is not solely driven by culinary preferences; it is also influenced by health benefits and religious significance. Muslims and Kashmiri Hindus alike incorporate dried vegetables into dishes for various religious occasions. The dried vegetables have transcended their utilitarian origins and now occupy a dual role, preserving not just culinary traditions but also cultural and religious heritage.
As Akhoon’s cart becomes a morning ritual for many, it stands as a testament to the resilience of tradition amid a changing world.
The aroma of dried vegetables wafting through the streets of Nowhatta serves as a reminder that some practices, born out of necessity, continue to thrive, connecting the present generation to the rich tapestry of Kashmir’s past.
