Harissa – a winter delicacy, thrives amid chilling cold in Kashmir

SRINAGAR, NOV 04: As the cold grip of winter tightens its hold on the Kashmir Valley, the tradition of savoring harissa, a minced mutton delicacy imported from Central Asia during the Mughal era, is seeing a resurgence in popularity.
This mouth-watering dish has become a go-to comfort food for locals, with its demand reaching its peak during the winter months.

In the heart of the old city, particularly in the Aali Kadal area, people brave the bone-chilling cold and foggy mornings to flock to the harissa shops.
The aroma of this slow-cooked delight draws crowds, and by 11 am, securing a plate of harissa becomes a near-impossible task, as most shops are sold out by then. The increasing demand for harissa has even prompted various food outlets to venture into its preparation and sale.
Harissa, a labor-intensive creation, is cooked in large ovens over simmering firewood heat overnight. It is made from lean mutton mixed with rice and flavored with spices like fennel, cardamom, clove, and salt, resulting in a rich and aromatic dish that warms both body and soul.
Manzoor Ahmad Regoo, who has been in the family business of selling harissa in the Aali Kadal area for generations, expresses his deep connection to this art.
“Preparing harissa is in my blood. I have devoted my life to this cherished tradition, and while I have earned a lot, the true satisfaction comes from seeing a satisfied customer relishing the dish,” says Regoo.
Traditional harissa shops are not confined to Aali Kadal; they can also be found in other old city areas like Nawa Kadal, Rajouri Kadal, Saraf Kadal, and Gojwara, all competing for customers and quality. This culinary trade is gradually spreading to uptown areas like Maisuma and Rajbagh, broadening its reach across the city.
Customers eagerly gather at the harissa shops at the crack of dawn, eagerly anticipating their favorite winter treat. “My friends and I ensure that we indulge in harissa at least twice a week. We eagerly await the arrival of winter to enjoy this delicacy with tandoori bread,” says Nasir Ahmad, a Srinagar resident.
In recent years, food joints have also joined the harissa bandwagon, serving this winter delight to a broader range of consumers across Kashmir.
While harissa has been a beloved tradition in Kashmir for centuries, its exact origin and entry date into the Valley remain shrouded in mystery.
The old Srinagar city, also known as Shahr-e-Khaas, continues to be the epicenter of harissa-making shops, drawing large crowds during the early hours to indulge in this delectable mutton delicacy.
As the Valley faces the bone-chilling cold of winter, the tradition of harissa remains a warm and comforting reminder of the enduring culinary heritage in Kashmir, uniting generations in their love for this aromatic delight.